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La vraye methode de trencher les viandes -- BODY

La vraye methode de trencher les viandes, Jaques Vontet
-- Digital version: Sam Wallace, version 15-10-2008.
-- (c) You may use this digital version for scholarly, private and non-profit purposes. Please make sure that you do not violate copyright laws of your country. Do not remove this header from the file.
-- Images used with the generous permission of Austrian Literature Online.
-- Thanks to Patrick Levesque and Ellen Perlman for their help in editing this work.
-- URL: http://www.uni-giessen.de/gloning/sw/vm/


Notes

La vraye methode de trencher les viandes (VM) was published some time in the late 17th or early 18th century. It seems to be a derivative work, using many, but not all, of the illustrations from Jacques Vontet's L'art de trancher la viande et toute sorte de fruictz : la monde italienne et nouvelle a la françoise (AT), published in Lyon in 1647. While the subject matter is the same, there are sections missing from the newer work. Also, some of the technical terms are different for the same sections. For example, in referring to wild and domestic pigeons, VM has fuyards et priués while AT has domestiques et sauuages. Notwithstanding specific vocabulary, the two works are written in slightly different dialects. AT was written in Lyonnais. This is not surprising given it was published in Lyon. Where VM was published is not indicated in the text, but assuming it too was published in Lyon, it is possible that the changes in the spelling and presumably the pronunciation are the result of the increasing influence of Paris.

In reading, it is important to realize that the illustration and the title of the individual sections often were on the right page. This might prove confusing in this transcription as the title can therefor fall after the section of text pertaining to that illustration. Refer to the menu bar for which pages belong to which sections.


Page
Illustrations
Transcription Translation Notes
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4 La Vraye Methode de trencher les Viandes, tant a l'Italienne qu'a la main, et les differentes facons de peler et server touts sorts de fruits, et le moyen d'en faire diuerses figures
Par Mr. Jaques Vontet
The True Method of Carving Meats, in the Italian way as well as by hand, and the different ways to peel and to serve all sorts of fruits, and the means of making various figures of them
By Mr. Jaques Vontet
At the top of the page, the following was written in a different hand from the body of the text: Collegii Societatis Jesu Hala 1707. An entry at the bottom, in the same or similar hand, reads Ex haereditate Staudacheriana or "From the Staudacher heritage." My thanks to Dr Thoms Gloning for help with this part of the transcription.
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6 Encor que l'art de trencher les Viandes ne semble estre utile qu'aux Escuyers trenchants, ou Maistre d'hostel de la Maison des Princes, ou des personne de condition, Veu que plusieurs pensent que ce soit seulement a leur table ou l'on observe la Methode de server a la fourchette ou de couper en l'air, Vou de m'aduoüerés neantmoins, qu'il n'y a personne méme d'un condition mediocre a qui l'art de trencher ne soit grandement necessaire, puis qu'il ne peut Inuiter ses amis a quelque banquet, qu'il ne soit obligé en meme temps de les seruir ce qu'il ne seauroit faire auec honneur, sans seauoir l'art de trencher, car il n'y a rien de sy mauuaise grace qu'une piece mal partagee, et mal seruie, c'est pourquoy J'ay creu, que tous ceux qui frequentent le compagnies, ou qui voyagent, soit en Allemagne, Italie, ou Espagne ou l'on obserue cette Method seroyent grandement curieux de pouuoir en peu de temps seauoir découper toute sorte de Viandes, & en toutes façons, et selon les diuers Vsages des pey ainsy que J'ay apris en la Maison des Princes d'Espagne, et Italie, comme Vous pouvrés ueoir par les diuers embrochemens de toutes sortes de Though the art of carving Meats does not seem to be useful except to Trencher carvers, or the Master of the hotel of the House of Princes, or to people of means, Seeing that many think that it is only at their table where one observes the Method of serving by fork or of cutting in the air, See that I avow nevertheless, that there is no-one even of a mediocre condition to whom the art of carving is not greatly necessary, since he cannot Invite his friends to any banquet, that he is not at the same time obliged to serve them which he could not do with honor, without knowing the art of carving, for there is nothing of such bad grace as a badly portioned part, and badly served, this is why I believed, that all those who frequent fellowships, or who voyage, either in Germany, Italy, or Spain where one observes this Method will be greatly curious to be able in a little time to know how to cut up all sorts of Meats, & in all ways, and according to the diverse Usages of the country such that I have learned in the House of the Princes of Spain, and Italy, as You may see by the diverse skewering of all sorts of This translation maintains the punctuation and capitalization of the original text as much as possible in order to better convey the "feel" of the original.
7 Viandes que vous remarquerés par le denombrement des chiffres et outré ce le moyen de pouuoir prendre son appetite sans gaster les autres pieces, et treuuer le meilleur morceau, et de plus, peler un poire en diuerses manieres, de couper les citrons, oranges, representer toutes sortes d'animaux, Comme Aegle, Scorpion, et ce que ie promets d'apprendre auec grande facilité, et toutes sortes de personne desireuses de seruir auec honneur vne honest compagnie Meats which you will notice by the listing of the figures and beside it the means to be able to slake one's appetite without spoiling the other pieces, and to find a better morsel, and in addition, to peel a pear in diverse manners, to cut lemons, oranges, to represent all sorts of animals, Such as Eagle, Scorpion, and which I promise to teach with great ease, and all sorts of people desiring to serve with honor an honest company.
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9 Les Volailles sauuages, comme la Caille, Grue, Estourneau et autres semblables sont fort exquises et en grande estime, parce quelles sont fort rares, et c'est la Viande la plus ordinaire des personnes de qualité, elles se seruent entieres ou le Jointures trenchez, comme il se Void par la presente figure. Wild Fowl, such as Quail, Crane, Starling and other similar are well exquisite and in great esteem, because they are quite rare, and it is the most ordinary Meat of persons of quality, they are served whole or the Joints carved, as is Seen by the present figure.
10 La Grue Crane
11 La Beccasse est en saison dépuis le moin de Nouembre Jusques au printems, elle est de trés bon goust, elle a ses Jointures delicates, & partant on la tranche auec facilité, on la sert entiere ou en pieces, comme monster sa figure. Snipe is in season from the month of November Until spring, it is of a very good taste, it has its delicate Joints, & therefore one carves it with ease, one serves it whole or in pieces, as its figure shows.
12 Beccasse Snipe
13 Sa saison commence au mois d'Octobre Jusques au mois de May, elle se sert en pieces, ou entiere, comme la Beccasse, le Perdreau est bon au mois d'Aoust, et se sert comme la Caille. Its season starts in the month of October Until the month of May, it is served in pieces, or whole, like Snipe, Partridge Chick is good in the month of August, and is served like Quail.
14 Perdrix Partridge
15 Il y a de deux sortes de Pigeons, seauoir fuyards et priués, les fuyards sont plus difficiles a trencher parce qu'ils sont plus nerueueux, et ont les Jointure plus fortes, et plus courtes, Ils se seruent pourtant comme les priués, comm'il se void dans sa figure, ordinairement ils se découpent en deux, et se seruent de la sortir de peur de trop charger de viande les conuiés, dont la trop grande quantite dégouste, ordinairement sa saison est en l'esté. There are two sorts of Pigeons, known as wild and domestic, the wild are more difficult to carve because they are more nervous, and have stronger Joints, and shorter, They are served though like the domestic, as it is seen in their figure, ordinarily they are cut in two, and are served from the start with fear of giving too much meat to the guests, of which too great a quantity disgusts, ordinarily its season is in the summer.
16 Les Pigeons Pigeons
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18 Chappons a la Caualliere Capons Cavalier style
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20 Pigeons dans un Pasti' Pigeons in a Pasty
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22 Nouuelle façon de trencher New way of carving
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24 Chapon embroché d'une autre façon Capon spitted in another way
25 Le mests le plus ordinaire d'une table est le chapon, s'il est uieil, sa saison est l'hivert, s'il est Jeune sa saison est l'esté, et partant bon en toutes saisons, il se trenche selon l'ordre des chiffre: En france on le decoupe et on le range dans le plat, en apres chacun prend selon son appetit, ou il se sert comme il le Verra ensuite premierement l'aisle, 2e l'autre 3. la fourchette de la poitrine auec vne piece du Cropion 4. la poitrine entiere 5. les deux epaulettes auec l'autre piece du cropoion 6. vne cuisse 7. l'autre, les cuisses se presentint les dernieres estant le moins estimees. Il est aussj a noter que lors qu'il se treuuera a table des personnes de condition, uo[us] adjousterés auec l'aisle une piece du cropion, mais hors de cette occasion Vo[us] presentirés l'aisle seule, sy la carcasse des rains se rencontroit bonne, Vous la pourrés presenter auec vne surcuisse selon le Jugement de celuy qui traitte, ou qui sert, qui doit auoir le soin de partager les uiandes, selon la nombre et la qualité des personnes qui sont a table pourtant du chapon il ne se peut faire que six bons seruices, mais a la necessité on en fait huict. The most ordinary table dish is capon, if it is old, its season is the winter, if it is Young its season is the summer, and therefore good in all seasons, it is carved according to the order of the figure: In france one cuts it up and arranges it in a plate, after each takes according to his appetite, or it is served as it Will be seen next firstly the wing, 2nd the other 3. the wishbone of the breast with a piece of the Crop 4. the whole breast 5. both shoulders with the other piece of crop 6. a drumstick 7. the other, the drumsticks are presented last being the least esteemed. It is also to be noted that when people of means will be at table, you add to the wing a piece of crop, but outside of this occasion You present the wing alone, if the carcass of the kidneys is well met, You may present it with a thigh after the Judgement of whomever treats, or who serves, who must take care to divide the meat, according to the number and quality of the persons who are at table however capon can be made into but six good servings, but if necessary one makes eight of it. "...sy la carcasse des rains se rencontroit bonne..." - to paraphrase: "...if the middle of the back looks good..."
26 Chapon a l'Italienne Capon Italian style
27 La proper saison du Coq d'Inde est l'hiuer, les Jeunes qui se mangent dépuis le mois de May Jusques a l'autonne sont les meilleurs, on commence par ses parties plus pesantes pour le render plus leger a la main, comme vous uerrés par la demonstration la maniere de le presenter 1. Vne des trenches de la poitrine auec Vne des parties du cropion. 2. l'autre piece du cropion auec l'autre trenche. 3. vne aisle. 4. l'autre 5. vne cuisse. 6. l'autre cuisse. 7. la surcuisse et l'épaulette de la fourchette, de la poitrine et des extremités des aisles auec de la carcasse, Vous enferés un seruice, sy uous le Jugés a propos de le tout fait neuf seruices. The proper season of a Turkey Cock is the winter, the Young which are eaten from the month of May Until the autumn are the best, one starts with its heavier parts to render it lighter to the hand, as you will see by the demonstration of the manner of its presentation 1. One of the slices of breast with One of the parts of the crop. 2. the other piece of crop with the other slice. 3. a wing. 4. the other 5. a drumstick. 6. the other drumstick. 7. the thigh and the shoulder of the wishbone, of the breast and of the ends of the wings with the carcass, You may make a serving, if you Judge it suitable to make nine servings of it all.
28 Le Coq d'Inde ordinaire en l'air Ordinary Turkey in the air
29 Le grand Coq d'Inde de neuf a dix liures se trenche dans le plat a la francoise, sa saison est l'hiuer, mais il ne se mange qu'apres estre gardé quelques Jours mort, car il en est plus tendre quand il y a peu de personnes a table, il se trenche seulement d'un costé auec cest ordres. 1. le col 2. l'extremité de l'aisle, 3. la surcuisse 4. la cuisse, 5, l'aisle, 6 la poictrine en deux ou quatre trenches selon la quantité de personnes, et sy découpés tout, uos suiurés le denombrement de sa figure, et a chasque seruice uous tascherés de seruir de la graisse qui est attachee a la fourchette de la poictrine. The large Turkey Cock of nine or ten pounds is carved in the plate in the french manner, its season is the winter, but it is not eaten until after it has been kept several Days dead, because it is more tender when there are few people at table, it is carved only on one side in this order. 1. the neck 2. the end of the wing. 3. the thigh 4. the drumstick, 5, the wing, 6 the breast in two or four slices according to the number of people, and if cutting up all, you follow the numbering of its figure, and to each serving you try to serve from the fat that is attached to the wishbone of the breast.
30 Le grand Coq d'Inde Large Turkey Cock
31 Sa saison est de meme que celle de l'oye, il est pourtant plus difficile a trencher, pour estre bon il faut que sa chair soit tendre et cuitte auec soing et bien arrosee on presente premierement les trenches de la poictrine, puis les cuisses, le reste se sert comme on Juge a propos. Its season is the same as that of the goose, it is however more difficult to carve, to be good its flesh must be tender and cooked with care and well basted one presents first the slices from the breast, then the drumsticks, the rest served as one Judges appropriate.
32 Le Canard domestique Domestic Duck
33 La Vieille Oye commance a estre en saison au commencement du mois d'octobre, et est bonne tout l'hiver les Jeunes commencent a estre bonnes au commencement de Juillet Jl en faut presenter premierement les cuisses qui se partagent en plusieurs pieces 2. une piece du cropion auec une piece de la poitrine. 3. l'autre partie du cropion se presente auec vne autre piece de la poictrine de plus la fourchette se sert auec une piece de la poictrine, le reste a discretion. Old Goose begins to be in season at the beginning of the month of october, and is good all the winter the Young begin to be good at the beginning of July It is necessary to present firstly the drumsticks which are divided into several pieces 2. a piece of crop with a piece of the breast. 3. the other part of the crop is presented with another piece of the breast moreover the wishbone is served with a piece of breast, the rest at [your] discretion.
34 L'oye domestique Domestic goose
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36 L'oye à la main Goose by hand
37 Le faisan est bon en autonne et tout l'hiver, la delicatesse de sa chair ne cede rien a celle de la perdrix, et est méme plus estimee a cause de sa rareté, l'extremité de la poictrine est le meilleur morceau. The pheasant is good in autumn and all the winter, the delicacy of its flesh yields nothing to that of the partridge, and is even more esteemed because of its rarity, the end of the breast if the best morsel.
38 Le faisan Pheasant
39 Le lieure a sa saison en l'hiver, le leurots sont meilleurs en esté et dans le printemps. Les quartiers de derriere s'embrochent en deux façons ou dans le fil des reins après l'auoir coupé trois doigts pour découurir la moüelle de l'espine du dos ou dans la poulpe des reins de telle façon que le fil des reins demeure entre les deux fourchons. Pour la presenter les deux Jambes ou cuisses les accompagnant auec un peau de la chair, qui est marquee au Nº. Je dis un petit, afin que l'on puisse seruir a tous comme le meilleur endroit. Hare has its season in the winter, the young hares are better in summer and in the spring. The rear quarters are spitted in two ways either in the renal vessels after having cut it three fingers to uncover the marrow of the spine of the back or in the octopus of the kidneys in such a way that the renal vessels remain between the two prongs. To present the two Legs or thighs accompany them with a little flesh, which is marked with Nº. I say a little, so that one can serve all as the best seat. Poulpe = octopus. The phonetic equivalent, pulpe (pulp), might be correct. Alternately, poupe (poop = the back of a ship) to refer to the bottom part of the kidney. The most probable and direct translation was used here as it fits with the shape of the blood vessels at the back of the kidney, but the reader might be interested in alternate possibilities.

"...marquee au Nº..." - There is no number listed here, but 14 and 15 look to be correct on the chart.

40 Le lieure, ou le lapin Hare, or rabbit
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42 [image only] Illustration shows location of kidneys
43 Il sembroche sur les épaules, comme aussy le Conil, et se trenche selon l'ordre de la figure, sa saison est le mois de May et Juin. It is spitted above the shoulders, so too the Coney, and is carved according to the order of the figure, its season is the months of May and June.
44 Lieure entire, ou lapin, et le Conil Whole hare, or rabbit, and Coney
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46 Lieure, Lapin, Conil a la main Hare, Rabbit, Coney by hand
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48 Espaule de Mouton Shoulder of Lamb
49 Pour ce qui concerne l'épaule de Mouton le gigot et autres choses semblables Uo[us] presenters les pieces que uous aurés coupé du costé qu'elle se seront mieux cuites et mieux roties, Pourtant il est a considerer qu'au Gigot il y a un petit os, appellé par les Allemans l'os de la mere, & par les Italiens l'éperon, et il se presente au plus considerable sur Vne assiette, auec une autre piece du meme.

Il faute remarquer que les rostis de quelque nature que ce soit, ils se presente tous auec de l'orange, ou du citron, ou autre chose semblab[le] d'apetissant, après y auoir mis du sel, et tout cel a se presente a chasque seruice qu[']on fait:

Concerning the shoulder of Lamb the leg and other similar things You present the pieces that you would have cut from the side that will be best cooked and best roasted, However it is to be considered that in a Leg there is a little bone, called by the Germans the mother's bone, & by the Italians the spur, and it is presented most respectably on A plate, with another piece of the same.

It must be remarked that the roasts of whatever nature that they are, they are all presented with orange, or lemon, or other similar trifling thing, after adding salt, and all that is presented in each serving that one makes.

50 Le Gigot de Mouton Leg of Lamb
51 Le Veau est bon toute l'annee, le Printemps toutesfois est sa plus ueritable saison, auant que la mere commence a paistre d'herbes seiches ou dures parce que la sauer de la chair procede du lait, et le laict de l'herbe.

La poictrine sera embrochee comme Vous Voyés dans sa figure, treuuant les Jointures auec bonne-grace, et se trenche selon les nombres, que sont marqués dans la méme figure.

Veal is good all year, the Spring most of all is its most true season, before the mother starts to graze on dry or hard grass because the savor of the flesh comes from the milk, and the milk from the grass.

The breast will be spitted as You See in the figure, finding the Joints with good grace, and carve it according to the numbers, which are marked in the same figure.

52 La Poictrine de Veau Breast of Veal
53 Le Cheurot est tres delicat, et d'une excellente nourriture, et parce qu'il est tilleux il demande Vn bon Cousteau pour le pouuoir trencher delicatement, il s'embroche de la maniere que uous uoyés, et on ne le sert que conformément au nombre des personnes qui sont a table. Kid is very delicate, and an excellent food, and because it is it is stringy it calls for A good Knife to be able to carve it delicately, it is spitted in the manner that you will see, and one serves it only in accordance with the number of the people who are at table. Tilleux - An archaic word, coming from the Greek tilos meaning fiber
54 De l'Espaule et du Cartier de Cheurot.

5. les rognons

Shoulder and Quarter of Kid

5. the kidneys

While the text indicates a kid, the illustration is that of a rabbit or hare.

55 Pour le Jambon s'entend le Gigot sauuage, ou domestique, on le trenche dans le plat auec une fourchette et un Cousteau assés grand, en leuant d'autour ce qu'il y a de Jaune auec le cuir, on le trenche en léchons menus et ainsy on le sert. Pour estre bon, il faut qu'il soit d'un porc Jeune et masle, il est de tres bonne nourriture et particulairement pour ceux qui trauaillent beaucoup. By Ham is meant a wild, or domestic Leg, one carves it in the plate with a big enough fork and a Knife, taking from around it what there is that is Yellow with leather, one carves it into thin slices and thus serve it. To be good, it must be from a Young male pig, it is very good food and particularly for those who work much.
56 Du Jambon Ham
57 Cette hure ueut étre d'un Jeune porc proprement Marcassin et cuite auec diligence, parce qu'elle est dure de sa nature. Et pour étre meilleure on luy doit laisser beaucoup de son col, lequel on trenche en léches, comme il se uoit par sa figure, on l'embroche par les narines. [You] want this head to be from a decently Marcassin Young pig and cooked with diligence, because its nature is hard. And to be better one must leave a lot from its neck, which one carves in chunks, as it is seen by its figure, one spits it through the nostrils. Marcassin = a young wild boar
58 De la hure du sanglier Boar's head
59 La test[e] de Veau de laict est beaucoup en Vsage sur les tables, neantmoins de differante sort parce qu'en Italie on la sert toute entiere auec son cuir, et en Allemagne sans la peau, et en france rompue.

Il faut presenter premierement un des Temples, 2. le second 3. un oeil auec la dent de l'oeil 4. l'autre oeil auec l'autre dent 5. une oreille o[u] l'autre 7 la langue en quatre pieces, c'est assauior une piece par seruice auec un peu de la chair a la maschoire de dessoubs, du restant uous enferés des seruices selon qu'il uous semblera plus a propos, les ceruelles se mettent au deuant des principaux de la table, qu'ils s'en seruent a leur appetite, parce qu'on fait diuers ragousts aux ceruelles, et a la peau qu'on leue de dessus, ce que l'on fait ordinairement pendant que l'on mange le reste.

Suckling Calf's head is much Used on tables, nevertheless of different sort because in Italy one serves it whole in its leather, and in Germany without its skin, and in france broken [up].

One must first present one of the Temples, 2. the second 3. an eye with the eye tooth 4. the other eye with the other tooth 5. one ear or the other 7 the tongue in four pieces, it is to sit one piece per serving with a little flesh from the underside of the jaw, of the rest you cut in servings as will seem most apropriate to you, the brains are put to the front of the head of the table, that they may serve to their appetite, because one makes various ragouts with the brains, and the skin that one lifts from the top, which one ususally does while the rest is eaten.

60 De la test[e] de Veau

16 la langue

Calf's head

16 the tongue

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62 [image only]
63 On la festine encore auec le poisson, et l'art en est fort aisé, d'autant qu'ils n'ont point de Joincture; on les doit trencher proprement en les ouurant par les costés d'une part et d'autre, ce qui ce peut remarquer aisément par sa figure.

La Truitte qui est un poisson des plus considerables quand elle est grand, on la trench par travers commencant par la teste a laquelle on laisse un bon doigt du reste, comme aussy a tous les poisons de cette grandeur ou grosseur, comme estant la meilleure partie du poisson, laquelle se presente au plus apparent de la compagnie mais quand la truitte est petite, on louure par les costiz comme aussy le Brochet, et après auoir osté l'épine auec la point du costeau, on remet le poisson d'une mediocre grosseur après en auoir aussy leué l'areste. Vous le seruires aussy entire sur une assiette de sauce auec une cueillere. En outré comme il semble a plusieurs que la queüe de certains poisons est meilleure que la reste, il sera donc fort a propos de presenter l'un et l'autre au plus qualifié de la compagnie la langue de la carpe, tenche sont des morceaux assés friands, on les prente auec la teste au principal de la compagnie, finalement quand on a porté a table un poisson deja mis en pieces par le cuissinier, on leuera les autres adriotement de chasque morceau.

One feasts again with fish, and the art is powerfully easy, the moreso as they do not have a Joint; they must be carved properly in opening them by the sides on one hand and the other, which can be easily seen by its figure.

Trout which is a fish is more considerable when it is large, one carves it through starting with the head to which one leaves a good finger of the rest, and also with all fish of this size or breadth, as being the best part of the fish, which presents itself as most apparent to the company but when the trout is small, one opens it by the sides also as with the Pike, and after having hoisted the spine with the point of a knife, one replaces fish of a mediocre size after having removed the bones. You also serve it whole on a sauce plate with a spoon. Besides it seems to many that the tail of certain fish is better than the rest, it will be therefore most appropriate to present the one and the other to the most qualified of the company the tongue of the carp, tench morsels are rather delicacies, one takes them with the head to the principal of the company, finally when one takes to table a fish already put in pieces by the cook, one will take the other adroitly from each morsel.

64 Pour trencher des Poissons To carve Fish
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66 [image only] [Various ways to carve fruit]
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68 [image only] [Various ways to carve fruit]
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70 [image only] [Various ways to carve fruit, including a swan]
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72 [image only] [Various ways to carve fruit]
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74 [image only] [Various ways to carve fruit]
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76 [image only] [Fruit carved into a scorpion, lobster, fish, and crocodile]
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78 [image only] [Fruit carved into a double-headed eagle and two other creatures]
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